Leflaive Dom. Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 2017 - case of 6
Lower elevation than Meursault Sous le Dos d'Âne. Very clayey soils. Soils are amoureuses, says manager Brice de la Morandière, because they cling to your boots. (Les Pucelles has much finer clay.) Wines from here tend to be structured more than balanced and can lack elegance but he believes that biodynamic farming has made a real difference. Copes well in dry years. Racked to tank just before the 2018 harvest. Ripe lemon, almost exotic. Creamy, mealy. There’s a lightly chewy structure. Dense but light on its feet – an unexpected dancer. Delicious pure lemon-zesty finish. Julia Harding MW
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