Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares 2017 - 75cl bt (in bond)
'Terres rouges' is very close to the northern limit, with Morey. Pruning identical. ‘Terres blanches’ (ie lots of active limestone) is above the path that dissects Bonnes Mares. Roumier has three parcels from far north to far south. In 2016 he was able to include for the first time the fruit from an extra hectare (2.5 acres) of land owned by Ficofi (planted in 1995) on marly soil and this has increased the ‘saltiness’ of this wine because two-thirds of their vines are on marl with lots of active lime, the other third on rock with clay and pebbles. Now they have six different parcels. Around 60% whole bunch. Barrel sample, three cuvées blended. A little smoky and rich in dark fruit. A touch of savoury char and sweet spice but I sense it is fruit spice not oak. Deep, cool and elegant, firm yet paper-fine texture, compact and so well defined and harmonious already. Salty finish. Chalky finish that speaks of the limestone too. Complex, elegant beauty. Julia Harding MW
score: 18.5 / 20
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