Domaine du Comte Armand, Pommard 1er Cru, Clos des Epeneaux 2006
Bottle Size: 75cl
Region: France: Burgundy Red
Grape Variety: Pinot Noir
The 2006 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux – which I last tasted lot by lot from barrel and as an impromptu approximation to the final assemblage – dramatically reflects the significance of old vines (and perhaps also of location within the Clos). This smells like an intensely aromatic and rich fruitcake, featuring dried berries, purple plum, brown spices, and citrus oil (all with a distillate-like high toned shadow), accompanied by a roasted richness of red meat and suggestions of caramel. Gently low in acidity yet at the same time suffused with dense, fine-grained tannin; it finishes with a rather somber amalgamation of blackberry, plum, peat, beef, and stone, but also a saliva-inducing savor. Typically for this cuvee, a portion of the wine displayed a more gamey aura – possibly merely a function of reduction – but that was nicely restrained and intriguingly complex in the assemblage. And whereas the premier cru Pommard received around one-quarter new wood (prior to its first racking), this got 50%, of which no portion evinces any overt trace. I would expect the finished wine to be worth following for a decade if not longer. Tasted December 2009. 91-92+ Points David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate.